At some point your pattern might start increasing at 15 or whatever but generally speaking the grade is even. Flat pattern making requires an accurate set of measurements to draft from. Just take it one step at a time. If the full bust measurement is more than 2 larger than the high bust use the high bust measurement as the bust measurement when selecting a pattern size. Uneven grading means that you base your pattern pieces more on exact standard body measurements so one size might increase 75 the next 5 and the next 125. Garment minimum bust ease blouse dress 2½ to 3 unlined jacket 3 to 4.
Standard body measurementssizing to ensure that a finished garment will fit properly it is important to take the following body measurements so that you can determine what size you should make. Neck round measure around the base of the neck slightly loose. Metric standard body measurement chart metric body measurements size t1 t2 t3 t4 height 79 86 94 102 cm chest 51 53 56 58 cm waist 51 52 53 54 cm hip 52 54 57 59 cm. There are a lot of measurements needed. And it can be kind of overwhelming. Check to make sure the tape is straight and parallel to the floor.
Not to worry youll get there. Then the horizontal measurements. Feb 21 2016 standard body measurements are one of those things that every budding sewing pattern designer searches for at some point i know i spent quite a while looking when i first started grading patterns and they can be tough to find. Taking careful body measurements will be one of the keys to your success. It is always better to have someone else do the measuring. From designers of huge production runs for superstores to studio designers of small runs for boutiques.
Three main groups of people use pattern making skills and they have very different needs. 3 shoulder to shoulder length. Ideal or standard body measurements. While making a dress or pattern making we mark shoulder 2 7 chest 4 9 waist 4 65 hips 4 9 in this if someones bust chest is heavy bust size is more than 36 she should divide her size by four and likewise with waist and hips. Rtw designers and pattern makers use standard body shapes and sizes and may want the quickest way of making patterns. It is in this order for the vertical measurements i assume 1 body length.
Of course you can shell out some cash up to hundreds for full set.